Karanjit Singh.
London Fashion Week 2018 marked a momentous fashion first, when her Majesty the Queen presented Richard Quinn with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design at London Fashion Week. The Queen made her first ever appearance on the front row nestled between Anna Wintour, editor of US Vogue, in sunglasses (of course) and Caroline Rush, chair of the British Fashion Council. In receiving prior notice to The Queens arrival Quinn reportedly added some extra “queeny touches,” to his show using scarves and floral print in the collections Balmoral segment, to mark Her Majesty’s attendance and to signify her sense of style. At House of Gharats we share Her Majesty’s penchant for a good silk scarf and thought it would be a great idea to look at the significance of the piece, in both Her Majesty’s personal wardrobe and as an intergenerational emblem of style.
“The Queens most royal accessory”
Like no other fashion accessory, the scarf is undoubtedly multifunctional in its use; it can be draped, folded, twisted and contorted in a myriad of ways to fit countless specifications. Vanity Fair describes the scarf as “The Queens most royal accessory,” and we certainly agree. As captured in Quinn’s show, the silk scarf is a staple in Her Majesty’s wardrobe. Whilst the Queen is not the first royal to favor a silk scarf, her use of the accessory has remained consistent and unchanged. The Queen has long favored the accessory at sporting and outdoor events or while horse riding, where the scarf serves a practical function in protecting the monarch’s hair. The Queens deployment of the scarf can be traced back to the 1940s when she first began styling the piece at horse shows. Her Majesty has a long cemented way of wearing her scarf, wrapping the fabric around her head with a tie to fasten it under her chin.
Majesty´s Approach
Whilst Her Majesty’s approach to wearing her scarf rarely changes, the patterns and colours which adorn the scarf itself are seldom the same. The scarf is always in a seasonal bright colour which complements the monarchs overall outfit. Florals are a prominent feature on many of the scarves which are adorned with delicate leaves, blossoms and flower designs. Indeed, the bright colours worn by the monarch at public affairs are used to help her stand out and be easily seen by crowds of people, to which her scarf adds a finishing touch. The Queen combines the scarf with outdoor, structured and horse racing apparel adding a quirky and elegant touch to all outfits. Her Majesty’s scarves are custom made my Hermes, although it is likely that many of her scarves are vintage pieces from a considerably large and enviable collection. In 2016 Hermes created a special scarf in honour of the Queens 90th Birthday with the design featuring an equestrian theme as a nod to the monarch’s love of horses.
It is worth noting that the scarf also takes on a symbolic function for Her Majesty and her role in public life. The Queens use of headdress is certainly reflective of the occasion she is attending, with the silk scarf marking an informal and relaxed monarch. Whilst Her Majesty wears hats when conducting official public duties, and tiaras or crowns at formal state affairs, the silk scarf gives us a glimpse into an approachable and seemingly unguarded Queen. With this, the scarf serves much more than a stylistic or practical function, existing as an indicator of the monarch’s personal style and agency. Whilst the crown is an accessory The Queen inherited, the silk scarf is one she chooses.
Granny’s got style
Whilst Her Majesty’s headscarf had once become a look synonymous with granny chic throughout the world, the look has recaptured a younger imagination through the work of designers such as Stella McCartney and Chanel in recent fashion collections. Indeed, the look is further refreshed in Quinn’s collection at London Fashion Week. Quinn presents “a tongue-in-cheek take on Balmoral,” using intricate floral patterns and layered scarves to form avant- garde silhouettes. As Vogue reports, Quinn covers entire looks in print “like a trapeze-shaped coat in an aquamarine motif with corresponding thigh-high boots that matched Her Majesty’s own outfit, all worn over a gimp suit in identical print.” The elegant faded prints apparent on the floor and walls of the catwalk also work to juxtapose the more daring silhouettes in the show. Looks with scarves, tied in the monarch’s distinctive style with prints covering the models faces, serve to blend the distinction between the print and the person, further contributing to Quinn’s abstract theme. At House of Gharats, we are excited by Quinn’s reinterpretation of the scarf and hope to see the accessory as a staple in his collection.
The Kalighat Queen
As Quinn demonstrated, the silk scarf is open to endless fashioning, re imagination and artistic autonomy. At House of Gharats we have played with the classic floral and equestrian motifs which typically adorn Her Majesty’s scarves, exploring Indo-British stories in our designs. We feel that Her Majesty would not look out of place wearing our Kalighat scarf collection, which is adorned with a kaleidoscope of Indian horses on a playful colour scheme of golden yellow and vibrant red. Beyond this, it is worth noting that the royal connection to Kalighat art goes beyond one that is simply characterised by a love for horses. With The Victoria and Albert Museum hosting the largest collection of Kalighat art outside of India, the royal relationship with the Kalighat style is particularly profound, and one expressed beautifully in the House of Gharats Kalighat collection. As the first Royal Patron for the V&A museum, The Duchess of Cambridge continues to symbolize this royal tie to the Kalighat style. Shop the Kalighat silk scarf on Wolf & Badger.
Final thought…
The scarf functions as an integral accent in the wardrobe of Her Majesty the Queen who has become an emblem for its versatility, practicality and style. The image of Queen Elizabeth wrapped in her silk scarf has become as iconic as pictures of the monarch in her crown and regalia. The monarch is a nonagenarian style icon who will undoubtedly continue to champion the accessory.
Become your very own scarf champion. Explore the House of Gharats silk scarf collection now available on Wolf & Badger.
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